Lubay Takes the Leap, BioFabricate’s Call to Action

Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.

Biofabricate

Following Biofabricate’s decision to cancel this year’s Paris Summit, the biomaterial innovation organization has another idea on the horizon: a call-to-action fair.

“We’re incubating something new. Uncertain times call for radical action,” reads an email from founder and CEO, Suzanne Lee. “If you believe, as we do, that the future will be grown, join us this September as we imagine a world built with biology.”

Dubbed the Biofab Fair, the September 16-17 event is “designed to ignite collaboration across the global design community” as it will take place during the London Design Festival ahead of London Fashion Week, according to the email announcement.

“Join this essential gathering to network with passionate innovators, brands, investors and creatives shaping a healthier future for humans and the planet through biodesign,” Lee wrote. “A visionary celebration of bioinnovation, experience a showcase of groundbreaking technologies and products touching fashion, beauty, interiors, packaging, automotive, architecture and beyond.”

Beyond Leather Materials x Lubay

Beyond Leather Materials, the Danish producer and supplier of Leap—an alternative material to traditional leather crafted from European apple waste—has teamed with the vegan handbag brand Lubay to bring Leap to Belgium.

“I closely follow developments in next-generation materials and, in recent years, the advancements—especially within the European Union—have been remarkable. When I discovered Leap, I was immediately drawn to its exceptional bio-based content,” Lubay founder Soho Francotte said in a conversation with Beyond Leather. “This is often a point of debate among critics of alternative materials, but Leap clearly demonstrates how quickly these innovations are evolving and improving. Additionally, sourcing materials ethically and as locally as possible is fundamental to Lubay, and Leap aligns perfectly with that philosophy.”

Leap—derived from LEftover APples—utilizes apple waste from apple juice and cider producers, converting that waste into a material that’s now 89 percent biobased. Each square meter of the material saves roughly four pounds of apple pulp from landfills, the company said. Per Lubay, the material sourced from the European juice and cider industry is now 91 percent USDA-certified biobased content certified.  

“The high bio-based content, its European production and—quite simply—the material itself. It checked all the right boxes for us,” Francotte cited as reasons for taking the leap. “‘It behaves similarly to other next-gen materials, but what sets it apart is its structure, durability and overall feel.”

Lubay’s line consists of two handbag designs—the minimalist crossbody Hagna and the versatile Scaldis Medium—available in two colorways (violet almost blue and cognac).

Hyosung x Big Agnes

Sustainable textile solution provider Hyosung has teamed with outdoor equipment brand Big Agnes on the Sweetwater Ultralight (UL) pack program.

Following three years in development, Big Agnes said it “hit the sweet spot” with this pack program as it fills the whitespace in the market by blending comfort technologies with running innovations. 

“We were fortunate to partner with Big Agnes in the launch of its first-ever pack category in 2021 when the brand celebrated its 20th anniversary,” said Laura Nilo, Hyosung’s U.S. marketing manager and West Coast lead. “We are grateful to collaborate with this iconic core mountain brand once again, and its exceptionally talented team, to bring their long-awaited Sweetwater UL packs to market.” 

The Sweetwater UL packs—offered in 28L, 43L and 60L—are made with Hyosung’s high-tenacity Regen Ocean Robic Nylon. The 100 percent recycled nylon is GRS-certified and derived from discarded fishing nets. According to an independent, third-party LCA, Regen has a 56 percent lower carbon footprint than its virgin counterpart while still offering the durability expected of conventional nylon.

“This collaboration allowed us to create an exceptional product that doesn’t compromise on performance while significantly reducing environmental impact,” said Michael Thompson, director of development and design at Big Agnes. “We’re thrilled to offer products that perform at the highest level while helping to protect the places we all love to explore.”

Filium

Plant-based performance firm Filium has teamed with Lady Golf the Fashion House in golf mecca Coachella Valley to launch the ParX pop-up. Open now through the end of April, the experience offers attendees a “firsthand look” at what’s powering the natural performance golf brand. For context, Filium has three in-house “concept brands” to showcase to other brands can do with its technology.

“At Filium, we believe in pushing the boundaries of performance fashion while staying true to sustainability,” said Raj Shah, co-founder and CEO at Filium. “Partnering with Lady Golf to bring ParX to Coachella Valley is a testament to how innovation and luxury can coexist. Golfers and active individuals no longer have to compromise between style and function; ParX delivers both.”

The Filium-activated ParX technology merges performance with sustainability, as its core technology is manufactured in accordance with Bluesign standards for sustainability. Its mill and factory partners are Oeko-Tex Standard 100, ZDHC, GOTS and TSCA compliant.

The textile enhancement solution is free from nanoparticles and dangerous-to-human-health chemicals. Filium said its tech, when activated on natural fabrics, renders them stain-resistant, odor-resistant and water-repellent.

“ParX is the first brand to bring to the golf industry high-performance, all-natural and versatile apparel with a high level of sustainability, thanks to its exclusive Filium technology,” said Princess Karen Cantrell, founder of Lady Golf the Fashion House. “We live in a world today where we need clothing technology that can meet ever changing climate and that is what Filium provides with ParX apparel.”

Outerknown

Outerknown has launched the Apex Evolution Trunks by Kelly Slater, the California lifestyle label’s first four-way stretch boardshorts made from B Corp Bureo’s NetPlus materials (post-consumer recycled fishing nets).

“With our minds forever on the sea, we teamed up with our friends at Bureo to utilize their unmatched NetPlus material made from recycled fishing nets,” said Outerknown creative director John Moore. “This yielded a truly responsibly-made trunk with a little more substance than the first Apex—without compromising any performance qualities.”

NetPlus material is made from 100 percent recycled, traceable fishing nets. The NetPlus recycling program collects discarded nets directly from fishing communities (to prevent them from entering the environment) in an entirely third-party-audited process. It’s certified for material traceability as well. In turn, Bureo said, the fishing communities have waste management infrastructure, employment opportunities and nonprofit funding.

“Developing a boardshort material for Kelly has been an incredibly rewarding experience for the entire Bureo team,” said Kevin Ahearn, Bureo’s co-founder and CTO. “We were able to work closely with the Outerknown team to perfect the fabric blend to ensure its durable enough for the demanding spots Kelly surfs, but still super lightweight, with the right amount of stretch to be comfortable for long days in the ocean; we’re thrilled to now share it with the industry.”