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London Fashion Week showcased a rich array of fur and checks, but when it came to the Fall/Winter 2025-2026 denim collections, both emerging designers and established names took a bold departure from tradition.
Chopova Lowena continued to recycle folkloric fabrics and deadstock materials in a collection that referenced dream girls and the U.K. rave culture of the late ’80s. “Rebellious brightness” permeated the collection of pleated denim miniskirts and dresses, each adorned with childlike bands of beaded inserts. A denim skirt was layered over jeans—both trimmed with fur and decorated with punk patches. An aura of rebellious Britishness radiated through the bold clash of tartans, black leather motorcycle jackets, and ornate embellishments that evoked the iconic style of Pearly Kings and Queens.
Luxury streetwear designer Abigail Ajobi showed “I’m not English, I’m British,” a collection patchwork and warped tartan juxtaposed to dark wash denim pieces with unfurled seams. Silhouettes spanned flare jeans with center seam details and bustier tops layered a sheer plaid blouse and necktie to men’s paper bag waist jeans and jean shorts.
In his London Fashion Week debut, Jawara Alleyne stacked cargo denim shorts over jeans. Other styles in the collection called “Construction,” were made from deconstructed jeans with different washes, stitched and pinned together.
Following a lavishly embellished Spring 2025 collection, Simone Rocha dialed down the extravagance with pared-back denim pieces. A distressed denim jacket was cinched by a chain belt with an engraved padlock. A distressed midi skirt and shrunken jacket with pearl baubles shared a blue-gray wash. The denim was balanced by several black leather and fur looks.
Sinéad O’Dwyer, a semi-finalist for the 2025 LVMH prize, used a tinted blue-gray wash for several body-hugging looks as well. In a show that promoted body diversity, the silhouettes of bodysuits, collar-less jackets and jeans were emphasized by seam details and hi-low contrasts.
Gradient denim pieces that went from dark into to white were part of SRVC’s collection. Jeans and skirts were embellished with long straps and undone belts and styled with plaid shirts and deconstructed athleisure jackets.
