GOTS Joins ‘Make the Label Count’ Coalition

Global Standard, the nonprofit that operates the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), recently joined the Make the Label Count coalition of international natural fiber producers, manufacturers, brands, environmental groups and standards.

Make the Label Count was founded in 2021 to advocate for revision of the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodology for assessing the environmental impact of textiles. While the PEF provides information on that impact to consumers, Make the Label Count said the protocol possesses significant limitations, such as system boundaries for textiles made from natural and synthetic fibers, as well as the exclusion of microplastics and plastic waste.

Because of this, Make the Label Count has voiced concerns that using the PEF method will allow companies in the European Union to greenwash, claiming EU-backed sustainability that isn’t fully credible or substantiated.

GOTS certification is one of the world’s most recognized standards for textile processing, backed up by third-party certification of the sustainability of all processing stages of fibers and textiles, including everything from fibers and yarns to fabrics and garments. GOTS was founded on the idea of providing one common standard that allows textile processors and manufacturers to export fabrics and garments with one organic certification that is accepted in all major markets.

“GOTS, with more than 16,000 certified facilities, shows that businesses want to prove their sustainability efforts, and that people want to buy more environmentally friendly textiles, provided that the labels and claims are accurate and credible,” said Marie-Luise Pörtner, global regulations specialist at Global Standard. “Consumers can trust the GOTS label because of robust, verifiable ecological and human rights criteria throughout the textile production value chain, a strong due diligence commitment and sustainability claims backed by independent third-party certification bodies.”

With greenwashing becoming a bigger concern for both brands and consumers, certification tools and standards have come under fire for not going far enough to ensure sustainability. In 2022, the Higg Index was paused after facing greenwashing claims. Last year, Cascale (formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition) launched an update to the Higg Index that includes new cotton life cycle assessment methodology to improve accuracy and consistency in determining the fiber’s environmental impact.

Along with Global Standard, Make the Label Count includes Australian Wool Innovation, the Campaign for Wool, Changing Markets Foundation, Cotton Australia, Fibershed, Better Cotton, the International Cotton Association and others among its global membership.