State of Los Angeles Denim Manufacturing

“Made in the USA” is a rallying cry that has grown ever louder since the Covid-19 pandemic ground global supply chains to a halt, cutting off American brands from their offshore partners. Over the ensuing years, challenges persisted, with production slowdowns and logistical hiccups prompting U.S. brands to reexamine the sourcing status quo—and revisit the idea of manufacturing stateside.

The concept is far from new for many denim and apparel labels who have long viewed the U.S., and Los Angeles in particular, as home base. Downtown, L.A. and the communities that surround it are home to thousands of mills, dyehouses and garment factories responsible for 83 percent of the country’s apparel production.

But even with buzzwords like “onshoring” on the tongues of many, the reality on the ground reflects a much more nuanced state of affairs for manufacturers.

Elvia Anaya, administrative specialist at Omni Laundry, told Rivet that the upsides of producing in L.A. are readily apparent. “The benefit to doing business in L.A. is the turnaround time,” she said, “and the creativity level is one-of-a-kind. We have had many customers come to us and are amazed to see their ideas come alive.”

Still, the six-year-old laundry’s business has decreased in recent years, and that unfortunate trend is continuing into 2024. According to Anaya, while brands are still interested in making denim in L.A., other apparel sourcing hubs, like Italy, are pulling market share away from SoCal makers.

Today, Omni provides a variety of services, from wet processing to dry processing like hand-sanding and whiskering, as well as several dye techniques. While it used to offer novelty washes, like tie-dye, those techniques have fallen by the wayside as brands streamline their offerings.

“For overdyes we are processing 60 percent direct dyes and 40 percent reactive dyes,” Anaya said. She noted that “direct dye takes an additional discharge process to lighten certain areas and seems very popular these days and keeps us busy.”

Omni also operates a small development sewing line for sampling and limited-production runs.

The ebb and flow of demand is being felt across the sector with inflation lingering and consumer confidence on a tentative upswing. But Pakistan-based Artistic Milliners’ L.A. wash and finishing facility, Star Fades International (SFI), is in a period of flow, according to Katie Tague, vice president of global marketing and sales.

“Since the initial Covid-driven nearshoring rush, SFI has observed a shift in the denim manufacturing landscape in Los Angeles. With the increasing demand for local production and the focus on sustainability, there has been a resurgence of interest in Made in the USA denim,” she told Rivet. “Brands are recognizing the value of sourcing locally and supporting domestic manufacturing, leading to a steady increase in business for SFI.”

According to Tague, what sets the business apart is its “comprehensive range of services, from design assistance to global sourcing solutions.”

Recent projects with brands have centered on developing innovative denim that prioritizes sustainability and ethical production—fitting, with California leading the charge for green manufacturing. “The team at SFI is dedicated to helping clients navigate the ever-changing denim industry landscape and create products that resonate with consumers,” she said.

SFI’s Karachi-based parent company, which counts itself among the largest denim manufacturers in Pakistan, has pioneered ecologically focused vertical production practices and relies on clean energy. There’s a synergy between that longstanding vision and the demands of the American consumer, making SFI’s L.A. business an essential proving ground for the firm’s innovations.

“In the domestic market, there is a growing emphasis on sustainable and ethically sourced denim products. Consumers are increasingly conscious of the environmental and social impact of their clothing choices, driving brands to adopt more sustainable practices,” Tague explained. “This trend is more pronounced in the U.S. compared to the global market, where there is a growing demand for transparency and accountability in the fashion industry.”

Acquired in 2021, SFI is a newer venture for Artistic Milliners, and Tague said the company has “learned valuable lessons about doing business in the U.S./L.A. market compared to abroad.” The benefits of having an American outpost include proximity to brands, access to diverse talent, and the ability to respond swiftly to client needs. “Being in L.A. also provides an opportunity to tap into the local creativity and fashion scene, fostering collaborations and innovation,” she added.

There are drawbacks, too—and they’re not insubstantial. Operating costs are higher. Competition is stiffer. Regulatory requirements are stringent, and only becoming more complex as the state looks to implement new regulations pertaining to fashion’s impact on the environment.

“Despite these challenges, Artistic Milliners has found that the benefits of being in the U.S. market outweigh the drawbacks, as it allows for closer partnerships with clients, more efficient communication, and a deeper understanding of local market trends and preferences,” Tague said.

Beyond denim, L.A.-based apparel producers report having experienced a lift in business since talk about nearshoring became mainstream.

TEG, a full-service garment manufacturer and developer based in Downtown, L.A.’s Arts District, offers both established and emerging brands help with patternmaking, sampling and cut and sew at a vertically integrated facility.

“Next year, 2025, will be TEG’s 20th year in business. I can say we have seen a steady demand for Made in L.A. production since we started,” Jennifer Evans, founder and CEO of TEG and parent company The Evans Group, said.

“There was a spike during and after Covid, which has leveled off, but we still have requests each day for domestic production”—especially true for emerging brands looking for small-batch manufacturing, which is the company’s primary focus, she added.

TEG’s business has grown “significantly” in the years after the pandemic, amplifying its reach. “We expanded our services to provide a complete one-stop-shop, from design to photoshoots, and have thrived since,” Evans said.

According to the founder, the manufacturer has developed a niche with both new and established high-end designers, having worked with labels like Jonathan Simkhai and Rodarte in the past. “We work on a wide variety of collections within those categories and tailor our services to suit each,” she said.

“We offer a more white-gloved experience to emerging designers, who need more hand-holding throughout the process, and high quality a la carte services for established brands looking for quick, quality work.” 

Amid a heightened focus on sustainability, the group has also seen more interest in specialty projects that promote circularity. “We have seen an uptick in reuse projects, for both emerging and established brands, which aligns with our ethos and services well,” Evans said.

For example, earlier this year, the manufacturer worked with Los Angeles streetwear retailer Bodega and Nike’s Re-Creation program to release a collection of one-of-a-kind, reimagined products made from reclaimed Nike goods. The assortment featured apparel, accessories and footwear made from upcycled, archival and deadstock materials.

“These projects take significant time and handling to orchestrate, but allow for unique, forward designs, which we see large demand for domestically,” Evans said.

Such collections illustrate the unique and tough-to-replicate advantages of manufacturing in the City of Angels. Small brands and designers can bring inventive, experimental projects to life without the pressure of high MOQs.

“Doing work in L.A. allows access to a highly skilled labor pool, easy and direct communications, flexibility in services, and clear business practices,” she added. “For small brands, these are invaluable benefits while they learn the nuances of the process and their businesses.”

This article is published in Rivet’s Fall 2024 issue. Click here to read more.